My father & son golf adventure on Scotland's golf coast

East Lothian is widely regarded as ‘Scotland’s Golf Coast’, hosting 22 superb courses along the coastline, with some even peeking into the Top 10 in the world.

With so many to choose from, it’s unlikely you’ll tick off all of these courses in one go so picking where to play can lead to a very exciting start to what will become an astonishing golf tour.

After 6-7 hours of driving up the M1 from Berkshire, we reached the cosy and quaint town of North Berwick, home to, of course, the superb North Berwick Golf Club. A bucket-list course indeed, this was, unfortunately, not on the agenda due to its huge popularity. You’ll need to book at least a year in advance to play whereas Dad and I are not that organised.

After a quick check-in to The Nether Abbey Hotel, a perfect family-run hotel just outside the town, we took a short stroll to take the beautiful beach views of North Berwick. Time passed and it’s time to get our golf glad rags on and head for Muirfield, the home of “The Honourable Company of Edinburgh Golfers”.

Rated No. 3 golf course in Scotland via Top 100 Courses

Regarded as one of the oldest golf clubs in the world (with written evidence dating back to 1744), we walked through the steel-gated entrance and quickly realised that we were lucky enough to have the opportunity to be here.

The iconic clubhouse sits beautifully behind the 18th green with a view over the golf course presenting you with a real ‘wow’ moment. With a quick purchase in the well-stocked (yet slightly steep) pro shop, it was time to head out for our morning 18.

The sun was out and to much of my naivety, so was the wind. The opening hole is a slight dog leg right, so a tee shot hugging the left side of the fairway is very much needed. A slight draw with a right-to-left wind meant a second shot out of very long and thick rough. After a few attempts I’m out and on the green and finally, walking to the next tee with an opening double bogey. Very much a taste of what’s to come!

The layout of Muirfield is unusual for links courses of its era. Instead of the standard 9 holes out and 9 holes in, it was the first to be designed with outward 9 holes running clockwise around the edge whilst the inward 9 holes running anti-clockwise sitting inside the outward 9. This layout ensures the golfer that no matter what hole you play, the wind will be hitting you in different directions.

Strategically placed pot bunkers are aplenty throughout (150 to be exact) giving you a fair challenge along with well-manicured fairways and greens. The back 9 hosts the signature par 3, 13th hole, which is one of the best par 3’s on the Open rota and personally, one of my favourite holes in golf. An uphill 191 yards (from the tips) to a long but narrow green whilst protected on each side by bunkers. You’ll do well to come off with a par here!

The 18th is a fantastic closing hole. A par 4 straight downhill back towards the clubhouse, bunkers defending the green, my approach shot finds the island of the right-hand side bunker. A chip and a putt and I’m walking off with a smile after a memorable round of golf, regardless of the numbers on the scorecard… and the loss to my Dad.

Rated No. 42 golf course in Scotland via Top 100 Courses

Redemption was on the cards after a loss the day before and what better links course to do it than the No. 2 Course at Gullane Golf Club? Home to three courses, including a former Scottish Open venue, Gullane is a superb option for a links golf break with all courses offering a different challenge for every level of golfer.

After a short warm-up on the superb practice facilities, our opening tee shots were observed by onlooking golfers which adds to those first tee nerves. The first 2 holes take you along the road with a sharp right towards the near vertical uphill 3rd hole which is unique, to say the least. With a blind tee shot up the hill and a breathless walk up, you’ll come to the summit of Gullane Hill revealing the round you are about to embark on.

A charming and spectacular view of Aberlady Bay throughout your round is prominent and nothing short of beautiful with an overriding sense of a sky larger than usual. Although the course seems wide and open, don’t think that No. 2 doesn’t have its troubles – thick rough and pot bunkers are scattered throughout creating a demanding yet entertaining round.

The par 3 11th hole is a personal favourite of mine. The raised tee box lends itself to a stunning view over the bay, with 215 yards downhill depending on the wind – club selection is key! After the 12th hole, you’ll find yourself at the bottom of Gullane Hill with the next few holes making your way back to the summit. The next holes are perfectly carved into the incline and provide a quirky and superb links design.

I prefer the No. 2 course compared to its big brother, the No. 1 course, due to its charming and unpredictable design. Yes, some of the journey holes to the summit of the hill aren’t the strongest but once you’re at the top, you’re in for a fantastic day on the links.

Rated No. 41 golf course in Scotland via Top 100 Courses

Score update between Father & Son and we’re all square heading onto the third round at the fantastic Dunbar Golf Club. An Old Tom Morris-designed course, the layout is positioned across a very narrow strip of land across the beautiful and rugged coastline.

We teed off in the morning into the fog with the first 3 holes sitting on the site of the old deer park bordered by an old stone wall. The 3rd hole is a short Par 3 downhill with the Clubhouse and Pro Shop sitting close to the left-hand side of the green – aim right to be safe!

The fog parted ways as we crossed to the other side of the stone wall, leading us onto the next 14 holes along the rocky shoreline. The 4th hole called “Shore” has you teeing off practically on the rocks into a narrow fairway with views of Bass Rock to your left.

Dunbar begins to play like a classic links course with the wind playing a prominent factor and holes embedded into the natural contours; your game demands accuracy and a lot of risk and reward. Many who play Dunbar have their signature holes whereas the Par 4 14th, is the majority's favourite, including mine.

The view back down toward the old boathouse with Bass Rock looming in the distance is second to none. A challenging tee shot onto another narrow fairway, it’s easy to get your driver out and try and cut the corner but as I’m 2 down, I thought a safe long iron will do you many favours whilst avoiding deep bunkers on the corner. A quick mention that the greens throughout the course are contoured, quick and endlessly challenging.

All square going into the last, the 18th resides on the other side of the wall heading back towards the Clubhouse. The wall runs along the right-hand side of the fairway, favouring the left-hand side but beware of many hiding bunker traps. Although a relatively short course, the tight and quirky layout across the shoreline made this such a fun day on the links. Two pars to finish and the realisation that this is a golf course I’ll be heading back to.

Rated No. 90 golf course in Scotland via Top 100 Courses

The final day with everything to play for! A 5-minute drive from the hotel we arrive at the Glen Golf Club, situated only a few drives away from North Berwick. Considered a shadow of the nearby ‘must-play’ course in Scotland, I had heard great things about the Glen as a cracking alternative.

On arrival, you had the sense that this was a proper member’s golf club with a friendly welcome. The first tee leaves you an approach shot up a vast hill with only a small view of a pin poking out the top. Once at the top (and believe me, it’s steep), you’re welcomed to well-earned views across the Firth of Forth and Bass Rock – simply stunning!

The main theme for the remaining 16 holes is the views, abundant from every single hole. You will not be taxed for length either, with nine of the 12 par 4’s less than 400 yards however, don’t be enticed to hit the driver every time. With the rough long and wispy, you will be penalised (as I was) just trying to get out and make par. The greens were not overly undulating but raised with run-offs so slightly wayward shots will be punished.

Two par 3’s stood out to me throughout the round, the 200-yard 9th hole and the signature 136-yard 13th hole. The 9th heads straight downhill onto a large green which I shamefully pulled into the left-hand bunker however, the views of Bass Rock made up for this! The 13th hole, ‘Sea Hole’, is a superb slightly blind (depending on the tee), downhill pitching wedge to a green encircled by rugged and rocky coastline.

The 18th takes you back downhill running parallel to the 1st, with a drive that feels like it’s skyward forever due to the elevation drop – a thrilling ending hole to what is a very underrated golf course when compared to its higher-ranked neighbours especially when you walk away with the win!

A truly amazing golf trip with a huge selection to choose from. I would strongly urge links golf fanatics to head to East Lothian as there is something for everyone – 22 options! This partnered with superb accommodation options, great pubs and restaurants, and easy train access into Edinburgh, adds to the allure of this special destination!

This is one of the best regions in Scotland. So much so, that I’ve already booked my trip back!